Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park by Richard Rossiter

Author:Richard Rossiter
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781493039388
Publisher: Falcon Guides

The route is long and involved, hidden in the depths of the remote cleft between the west face of the Grand Teton and the north buttress of the Enclosure. There are three distinct icefields separated by sections of rock and a final, narrow chute that leads to the Upper Saddle. The couloir is difficult to reach by any approach, and once on the ice the only escape is up. There is some danger of rockfall from climbers on the Owen-Spalding route, especially during midseason. The Black Ice Couloir requires mastery in routefinding and the ability to move quickly over mixed terrain with full alpine gear.

Approach: There are several logistical options that depend upon path of approach and whether one plans a retrievable high camp, a carryover, or a one-day ascent. The most direct approach with the least hiking is via Valhalla Canyon. The Black Ice Couloir begins from the head of this canyon and climbs for about 3,000 feet to the Upper Saddle. Overnight gear must be carried up the route if camp is made in the canyon. Thus, a one-day blitz may be preferable with this approach. The only reasonable descent is via the Owen-Spalding. It is possible to retrieve a camp in Valhalla Canyon by taking the Valhalla Traverse back around from the Lower Saddle, but this is a long haul and not recommended.

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